What is Viscose Fabric and is it Sustainable?

Viscose Fabrics at Core Fabrics

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Viscose is a unique fabric that is often misunderstood. It sits somewhere between synthetic fibres and natural fibres in the textile world, which leads many to wonder, "What exactly is viscose?" To answer that question, we’ll explore what viscose is made from, how it’s produced, and its sustainability in the context of the modern textile industry.

What Is Viscose Fabric?

Viscose, also known as rayon, is a semi-synthetic fibre that has become a popular fabric in the fashion industry. Despite being derived from natural sources, it is processed using chemicals to create a material that can be used to make garments, upholstery, and even medical products. It is often referred to as “artificial silk” because of its luxurious feel and smooth texture, which is comparable to that of silk.

Tencel Lyocell Viscose Fabric at Core Fabrics

How Is Viscose Fabric Made?

Viscose production begins with cellulose, which is the natural material that makes up plant fibres. Cellulose can be sourced from trees, bamboo, or other plant fibres, but trees are the most common source. The wood or bamboo pulp is treated with chemicals to break down the cellulose. First, the wood is turned into wood chips, which are then dissolved using sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide to create a viscous liquid known as “viscose.”

This viscous liquid is forced through spinnerets to form threads, which are then hardened by bathing them in sulfuric acid. The threads are then washed, dried, and processed into fibres that can be woven or knitted into fabric. These fibres retain the basic structure of the original plant material, but the chemical process used to make viscose makes it a semi-synthetic fibre, not a purely natural one.

This process is part of what makes viscose different from fibres like cotton or linen, which are spun directly from natural plant fibres without the need for chemical treatment. Though viscose starts with natural raw materials, its chemical transformation during production makes it less “natural” than these fibres.

You can see a small-scale version of viscose production in this video:

Is Viscose Fabric Sustainable?

One of the most common questions asked about viscose is whether it is sustainable. After all, it starts from renewable plant sources like trees and bamboo, so it seems like it would be a more eco-friendly option compared to synthetic fabrics. However, there are several factors to consider when evaluating the sustainability of viscose.

Environmental Concerns

Viscose production has some environmental challenges that need to be addressed. For one, the production process involves the use of chemicals that can be harmful to the environment if not properly managed. The chemicals used, such as carbon disulfide, are toxic and can pollute water sources if not treated carefully. Additionally, traditional viscose production can be water-intensive, using large amounts of water that can harm ecosystems if waste is not properly disposed of.

Another major concern is the sourcing of wood. To produce large quantities of viscose, vast amounts of trees are needed, which can contribute to deforestation. This is particularly problematic when forests are not sustainably managed. To address these concerns, companies and certification bodies have implemented measures to ensure that viscose production is more environmentally responsible.

Sustainable Viscose Options

Not all viscose is created equal, and there are more sustainable alternatives that are gaining popularity. For example, Lyocell is a type of viscose that is considered more eco-friendly because it is produced using a closed-loop system. This process recycles chemicals and water, reducing waste and pollution. Lyocell is made using a solvent called amine oxide, which is non-toxic and biodegradable. Additionally, the wood used to produce Lyocell is often sourced from sustainably managed forests.

EcoVero, another form of sustainable viscose, is produced by Lenzing, an Austrian company known for its environmentally friendly fibre production. EcoVero viscose like our EcoVero Viscose Jewel Tone is made with up to 50% less water impact than traditional viscose and is manufactured in a way that minimizes harmful emissions and waste. Fabrics made with EcoVero viscose meet rigorous environmental standards, and the process is transparent, so consumers can trace the fibre’s origins and ensure they are buying a sustainable product.

Another significant certification is FSC (Forest Stewardship Council), which ensures that the wood used to create viscose comes from responsibly managed forests. This certification is important for ensuring that companies are sourcing their materials sustainably and not contributing to illegal logging or deforestation.

At Core Fabrics, we make it a point to source our viscose from closed-loop systems to ensure that the chemicals used in production are recycled and reused, not released into the environment. This sustainable approach helps mitigate the negative impacts of viscose production and reduces waste.

Lyocell Viscose Twill at Core Fabrics

Types of Viscose Fabric

Viscose is a versatile fabric that can be used to create a wide variety of textiles, each with its own characteristics and uses. Some of the most common types of viscose fabrics include:

  • Viscose Challis: A soft, lightweight fabric with a slightly crinkled texture. It is often used for dresses, blouses, and skirts.
  • Viscose Crepe: Known for its textured surface and slightly bumpy feel, viscose crepe is a great option for making tailored garments like blouses and skirts.
  • Viscose Satin: A smooth, lustrous fabric with a shiny finish. It’s often used for elegant evening wear, blouses, and skirts.
  • Viscose Twill: A fabric with a distinct diagonal weave, often used for creating soft, flowy pants, dresses, and jackets.

Viscose can also be blended with other fibres, such as cotton, linen, or spandex, to enhance its properties and create unique fabric blends. For example, a Viscose-Linen Blend offers the softness of viscose combined with the breathable qualities of linen, making it perfect for summer garments.

Textured Viscose Linen Blend Fabric at Core Fabrics

The Versatility of Viscose

One of the key reasons viscose is so popular in the fashion industry is its versatility. It has a smooth texture and a luxurious drape, which gives garments a beautiful, flowing quality. Viscose fabrics are often used to create soft, feminine styles like dresses, skirts, blouses, and evening wear. However, because viscose can be produced in a wide range of weights and textures, it is also used for more structured items like jackets, trousers, and tailored shirts.

Viscose is also known for its excellent ability to blend with other fabrics, allowing it to enhance the qualities of the fibres it is combined with. When blended with cotton like our organic cotton Tencel knit, viscose can create a soft, breathable fabric that is ideal for summer garments. Blended with wool, it can make a lightweight, soft fabric that’s perfect for lightweight coats and jackets.

Conclusion

Viscose is a fabric that has been beloved for its softness, smooth texture, and versatile uses in fashion. While it does have some environmental concerns, sustainable viscose options are becoming more prevalent. Fabrics like EcoVero viscose, Lyocell, and FSC-certified viscose are making strides in reducing the environmental impact of viscose production.

As consumers become more aware of the sustainability of the fashion industry, there’s a growing emphasis on eco-friendly materials. The future of viscose looks promising, as more manufacturers adopt environmentally responsible practices to ensure that this beloved fabric remains a sustainable option for years to come.