Deadstock Fabrics Explained: Tips for Sustainable Sewing

Let’s explore the fascinating world of deadstock fabrics! If you’ve been fabric shopping lately, you might have spotted this term and wondered what the fuss is all about. Perhaps you've even stumbled upon a shop dedicated solely to deadstock treasures. It goes by many names—"overstock," "surplus," or "remnants"—but they all point to the same thing: fabric that didn’t make it into its intended final product, and (if you ask us) is simply waiting for its next creative chapter. Trust us, these aren’t just leftovers—there’s a whole lot of sewing potential (and a little mystery) packed into these rolls!

What Is Deadstock Fabric?

Deadstock fabrics can come from many different places, but the basic concept is that it's unused material from a previous production run. Sometimes, brands and designers over-order or have to meet large minimums, leading to surplus fabric. Other times, it’s a result of production mishaps, like the wrong colour being produced, or maybe a fabric roll is slightly damaged. On occasion, canceled orders contribute to the pile of excess material. While deadstock may sound like a waste, buying can be seen as a way to prevent it from ending up in a landfill—making it a sustainable choice for many sewists.

Is Deadstock Fabric Truly Sustainable?

This brings us to the big question: is deadstock actually sustainable? The short answer is: it depends. The very existence of deadstock highlights a larger issue in the textile industry: overproduction. Some mills even intentionally overproduce, knowing they can sell the extra fabric as deadstock. When buying deadstock from wholesalers or "jobbers" (middle persons between mills and fabric stores), it can be hard to know exactly where the fabric came from or why it was left behind. The lack of transparency in the textile industry means that sometimes it's a bit of a guessing game for those of us who want to make conscious, eco-friendly choices.

How we Source Deadstock Fabric

At Core Fabrics, we believe it’s important to be transparent about how we source our deadstock. We prioritize buying directly from the source whenever possible, particularly from local, eco-conscious designers. Being based in Montréal, we’re fortunate to have access to a community of indie designers who already have responsible production practices—many even knitting and sewing their fabrics right here. This means a lot of our deadstock comes from these small-scale, thoughtful studios. So when we find a few rolls of designer fabric from a few years ago, it feels like a win! We’re not only giving that fabric a second life, but we’re also supporting a fashion ecosystem that aligns with our values.

Quality Matters

While we love supporting small designers, we also work with a few trusted deadstock wholesalers. Whether it’s coming from an indie designer or a fast-fashion retailer, we always make sure the fabric quality meets our standards. One challenge with deadstock is that sometimes it’s hard to trace its origins, materials, or durability. For example, deadstock fabrics that are heavily plastic-based aren't sustainable from the get-go. So while buying using deadstock is a great way to reduce waste, it doesn't completely negate the environmental impact that went into creating and using it.
That's why when we source deadstock from wholesalers, we prioritize natural fibres and materials that meet our sustainability standards. For instance, if we come across a beautiful Irish linen, a denim from a prestigious mill, or a wool suiting, we’re definitely going to check it out! We always scrutinize the composition and available details to ensure it aligns with our eco-conscious values.

The Challenges of Working with Deadstock

Even with the best intentions, things don’t always go as planned, and we’re not immune to that! Every so often, we come across a beautiful deadstock fabric that seems perfect—until we run a burn test (and if you're unsure how to do this yourself, we've got a handy blog post and downloadable guide to help you out). That’s when we sometimes discover that the fabric's fibre composition doesn't quite align with our sustainability standards. When that happens, we simply won’t stock it. It’s part of the challenge of working with deadstock: the mystery of its origins can sometimes leave us with less information than we’d like. But we’re always committed to being transparent about what we know, and we strive to make sure that everything we offer aligns with our values.

A Mindful Approach to Deadstock Fabrics

Ultimately, deadstock fabric can be a fantastic, responsible choice—if we approach it with mindfulness. Our advice when shopping for deadstock is simple: ask questions, check the fabric composition, and do a bit of research if you can. We’re all about transparency, and we truly believe that deadstock has a place in creating a more sustainable wardrobe. For us, working with indie designers to repurpose their surplus fabrics is an incredibly rewarding experience. It's such a joy to connect our two worlds and give these materials a second life!

Finding Sewing Inspiration in Deadstock Fabrics

One of the best parts of working with deadstock is the chance to learn about its original purpose. We love finding out what garments the fabric was originally intended for and sharing that with you. Knowing the story behind a fabric gives us sewing inspiration, and we’re always eager to recommend patterns and ideas that will bring these materials to life again.

Wrapping Up

We hope this blog post sheds a little light on the sometimes opaque world of deadstock fabrics. While it might seem like a small piece of the larger puzzle, sourcing and working with deadstock fabric is one way to help make fashion more sustainable. With a little research and a mindful approach, deadstock can be part of a journey toward a more eco-friendly wardrobe. Happy sewing!