Interfacing is one of those things about sewing that often tie folks up in knots... but understanding when and how to use interfacing is key to getting beautiful, professional looking garments. Nowhere is this more important than when you're sewing with wool. Because it's so malleable, interfacing wool is crucial step. Let's dig into it!
Interfacing provides structure and stability to wool fabrics. Most of the time you only need to interface key areas and details like pockets, collars, armholes and hems. In some cases, you may need to interface an entire pattern piece, such as a coat front. If you're using a good pattern (like the Closet Core Clare Coat or Jasika Blazer) you should be directed about where and how to apply interfacing, but if you're unsure or self-drafting a garment, just think about stabilizing those areas that see a lot of stress or movement.
While wool is easy to interface, it does require a little more care than your average fabric. Here are our biggest pieces of advice.
Tips for Interfacing Wool
- Choose fusible "weft" interfacing. It adds soft stability and structure while maintaining the drape and hand of the fabric. If weft is unavailable, knit interfacing works in a pinch although it isn't quite as stable. We always carry both kinds in the shop!
- Use a press cloth when applying interfacing. It protects your wool from overpressing and your iron from melted adhesive. Silk organza is best since you can see through it, but lightweight cotton or wool work as well. Be sure to protect your ironing board with scrap fabric so you don't get adhesive on it!
- Apply using mid to high heat, medium pressure and a burst of steam - the steam will help activate the adhesive. As a general rule, press each section for about 10 seconds to adhere the fusible to fabric. Always let your pattern pieces cool before moving to the next section.
- Start applying fusible from the middle of your pattern piece and work your way out. Always lift your iron when it's time to move rather than sliding it around (this can distort your interfacing).
- To interface many small pieces, try block fusing. This means fusing a large piece of fabric and then using that to cut out the smaller pieces - this ensures minimal stretching and distortion.