Wondering if a jersey needle works for swimwear or if you really need a jean needle for denim? And what's the deal with those two numbers? Choosing the right sewing machine needle is crucial for a successful project, just like having the right tool for any job. In this blog post, we've got you covered with everything you need to know about machine sewing needles, deciphering those little numbers, and selecting the perfect needle for your next sewing project. Let's slide open these mysterious little packs (or just open the paper envelope for the organ needles we carry) and let's get started!
The anatomy of a machine sewing needle is quite simple but plays a crucial role in the stitching process. Every component of the needle plays a pivotal role, influencing its performance and suitability for various fabrics and sewing techniques.
Sewing machine needles vary in types and sizes, with each suited to specific fabrics. To choose the correct needle, you'll need match it to your fabric type and weight.
There's a variety of needle types available, from universal needles to ballpoint needles, stretch needles, jeans needles, and microtex needles. Understanding these types helps you select the perfect needle for your fabric. Use this chart to help you pick your sewing machine needle:
| Needle Type | Fabric Type | Description |
|---|---|---|
 |
Most wovens, some knits | A multi-purpose needle with a slightly rounded point, available in a variety of widths. |
|
Ball Point
|
Jersey, rib knit, interlock, cotton knit, fleece, double knit | The rounded point makes it gentle on knit fabrics by pushing the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. |
|
|
Stretchy knits, swimwear, performance knit, ponte | A 'scarf' allows extra room for the hook to pass close by and prevents skipped stitches on very stretchy knits, especially containing Lycra®, Spandex or elastic. |
|
Microtex (sharp)
|
Silk, viscose | A slim, sharp, acute point pierces very fine or densely woven fabrics. It's also great for fine details like pintucks. |
|
Jeans (denim)
|
Denim, canvas, corduroy, coating | A special blade-like point easily passes through thick fabrics. |
| Topstitch | Quilting, topstitching, embroidery | The large eye of this needle helps accommodate topstitching thread, or two regular threads for special effect. |
| Twin (double needle) | Decorative, hemming on wovens and knits | Two needles attached to a single shank at the top create two parallel lines of straight stitches on the top side, with a small zigzag stitch linking them on the underside. |
The numbers on a sewing machine needle are like its size tags, telling you how big it is in both metric and imperial systems. So, if you see "90/14" on a needle, it means it's a size 90 in metric and a size 14 in imperial. These numbers show how thick and long the needle is, with bigger numbers meaning a bigger needle. And why does size matter? Well, it's all about finding the right fit for your fabric. Heavier fabrics need larger needles to stitch well. Check out the chart below for some help figuring it all out (For more info on understanding fabric weights, check out our blog post)
| Fabric Weight | Needle Size (Metric) | Needle Size (Imperial) |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 60-75 | 8-11 |
| Midweight | 80-90 | 12-14 |
| Heavyweight | 100-120 | 16-20 |
When you're sewing with lightweight fabrics like chiffon or silk, go for a smaller needle size. But if you're tackling heavy-duty stuff like denim or leather, reach for a bigger needle size. Matching the needle size to the fabric weight keeps your stitching smooth and helps avoid pesky problems like fabric damage or thread breakage.
Want to keep this info handy for the next time you're debating which machine needle to use for your sewing project? Download our handy cheat sheet on selecting the right machine needle for your project and always have the perfect needle at your fingertips!
Change Your Needle Regularly: Always start a new project with a fresh needle. Needles get dull and can bend, so changing them often ensures the best results.
Microtex Needle for Delicate or Finicky Fabrics: We love Microtex needles! It is our secret weapon for handling finicky, hard-to-manage fabrics.
You Don't Necessarily Need a Jean Needle: While a jean needle is ideal for heavy-duty denim, a universal needle can also work. Use a size 90/14 needle for midweight denim and a 100/16 for thicker denim. For chambray or Tencel denim, an 80/12 universal needle will work.
Using Two Threads for Topstitching: To achieve a bold topstitch, you can thread two regular threads through the eye of a topstitching needle. The larger eye and deeper groove of the topstitching needle will accommodate the two threads, ensuring smooth stitching without breaking the threads. This technique is perfect for adding extra definition to your seams and decorative stitching.
And that wraps it up! When in doubt, testing on scraps is always a good idea. Experiment with different needles on swatches, checking the stitches to ensure the needle hole isn’t too big and if the needle struggles to penetrate the fabric, consider switching to a sharper point, a needle with a larger eye, or simply replacing it with a fresh one.
