Choosing Cotton Fabric for Your Sewing Project

If you’re on the hunt for a fabric that’s easy to work with, versatile, and oh-so-comfortable, cotton might become your new best friend. Cotton fabric is perfect for both beginners and seasoned sewists, offering a breathable, soft feel that’s ideal for all kinds of garments. Whether you’re making a structured dress, a cozy sweater, or anything in between, cotton holds its shape beautifully and is super low-maintenance—just toss it in the wash and it gets softer each time. From delicate voile to durable canvas, cotton is ready for whatever project you’ve got in mind!

But before you dive into your cotton adventure, it’s important to keep in mind that choosing the right fabric goes beyond just picking the prettiest print (though let’s be honest, that’s a big part of the fun!). You’ll want to consider the weight, drape, feel, weave, and finish of your cotton fabric. Think of these as the fabric’s personality traits, they’ll determine how it behaves and impact your garment's final look and fit:

• Weight: This is the fabric's "heft." Lighter fabrics like voile or lawn are perfect for breezy, billowy garments, while the heavier champs like canvas and denim are ready to take on structured, powerful designs.
• Drape: How does it fall? Soft fabrics like cotton jersey or double gauze tend to flow and dance around you, while structured fabrics like poplin and canvas stand tall holding their shape.
• Feel: Do you want your fabric to feel like a cozy cuddle (hello, cotton fleece) or something with a little more texture (I’m looking at you, seersucker)? A fabric's finish can also change everything. Waxed cotton, for instance, has its own vibe, different from brushed cotton’s softness.
• Weave & Finish: Cotton’s weave (plain, twill, satin, oh my!) and finish (brushed, mercerized, waxed) all affect its durability, texture, and the amount of fun you have while sewing with it.

With these key points in mind, you can confidently choose the fabric of your dreams. And at Core Fabrics, we’ve got fabric guides, handy garment icons in product descriptions, and pattern recommendations to make the whole process a bit easier.

Let's explore some of the most common cotton fabrics:

A Guide to Common Cotton Fabrics

(For simplicity’s sake, we’ve organized by weight category, but some fabrics come in more than one flavour!)

Woven Cotton Fabrics: Lightweight Cotton

Cotton Voile

• Weave: Plain weave.

• Feel: Soft, lightweight, breathable, and slightly sheer.

• Best for: Light blouses, breezy dresses, summer garments, lining fabric.

• Notes: Voile has a slightly crisp yet soft hand and is perfect for warm-weather clothing. It’s often used for delicate layering pieces.

• Sewing Needle: Use a fine needle (size 70/10) to prevent snags.

Cotton Lawn

• Weave: Plain weave.

• Feel: Smooth, crisp, lightweight.

• Best for: Summer blouses, button-up shirts, dresses, skirts.

• Notes: Slightly more structured than voile, lawn is a great choice for lightweight but polished garments. It often features beautiful prints.

• Sewing Needle: Use a fine needle (size 70/10) for precision.

Cotton Double Gauze

• Weave: Loose weave, double-layered fabric.

• Feel: Soft, airy, slightly crinkled texture.

• Best for: Blouses, dresses, baby clothes, relaxed-fit garments.

• Notes: Double gauze is known for its cloud-like softness. It’s breathable and gets softer with washing, making it a popular choice for comfort-focused garments.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 80/12) and a walking foot to prevent shifting.

Cotton Seersucker

• Weave: Plain weave with puckered stripes.

• Feel: Textured, breathable, lightweight.

• Best for: Summer garments, shirts, dresses, travel wear.

• Notes: The puckered texture keeps seersucker from sticking to the skin, making it perfect for hot and humid climates.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 80/12).

Cotton Chambray

• Weave: Plain weave with a coloured warp and white weft.

• Feel: Soft, lightweight, breathable.

• Best for: Shirts, dresses, casual skirts, lightweight pants.

• Notes: Chambray has the appearance of denim but is much lighter and softer. It’s great for casual, everyday wear.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 80/12).

Cotton Oxford

• Weave: Subtle basketweave.

• Feel: Smooth, soft, and breathable, with a bit more structure than regular cotton shirting.

• Best for: Button-ups, shirts, and shirt-dresses.

• Notes: Cotton Oxford offers a crisp, polished look with its subtle texture, making it ideal for both casual and smart-casual garments. Its sturdy yet breathable nature adds just the right amount of structure to your wardrobe staples.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 80/12).

Cotton Poplin

• Weave: Plain weave with a tight, fine ribbed texture.

• Feel: Crisp, smooth, lightweight but structured.

• Best for: Shirts, dresses, skirts, casual and semi-formal wear.

• Notes: Poplin is a versatile fabric that holds its shape well, making it ideal for structured garments that still feel breathable and comfortable.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 80/12) for best results.

Cotton Satin

• Weave: Satin weave.

• Feel: Soft, smooth, and lightweight with a subtle sheen.

• Best for: Elegant blouses, dresses, and linings.

• Notes: Cotton satin has a luxurious appearance while still offering breathability, making it a great choice for refined garments.

• Sewing Needle: Use a sharp needle (size 80/12) to preserve the fabric's sheen and smooth texture.

Woven Cotton Fabrics: Midweight + Heavyweight Cotton

Cotton Broadcloth

• Weave: Plain weave.

• Feel: Smooth, tightly woven, can have a crisp edge.

• Best for: Shirts, dresses, pants.

• Notes: Broadcloth has a versatile medium drape making it ideal for all sorts of garments..

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 80/12).

Cotton Twill

• Weave: Twill weave (diagonal pattern).

• Feel: Sturdy, durable, medium to heavy weight.

• Best for: Pants, jackets, workwear, structured garments.

• Notes: Twill is strong and resistant to wrinkles, making it ideal for hard-wearing garments.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 90/14).

Denim (Cotton Twill)

• Weave: Twill weave (diagonal rib pattern).

• Feel: Sturdy, structured, and durable.

• Best for: Jeans, jackets, skirts, overalls.

• Notes: Denim is a tightly woven twill fabric known for its strength. It softens with wear and washing while maintaining durability.

• Sewing Needle: Use a denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16).

Cotton Canvas

• Weave: Plain weave, heavy-duty.

• Feel: Durable, structured.

• Best for: Bags, jackets, workwear.

• Notes: Canvas is extremely durable and often used for utilitarian projects. It can be softened with washing.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal or heavy-duty needle (size 100/16).

Cotton Jacquard

• Weave: Jacquard weave (intricate woven patterns).

• Feel: Textured, often thick and decorative.

• Best for: Jackets, dresses, home decor, special occasion wear.

• Notes: Jacquard adds an elegant touch to garments and upholstery. Some jacquards have a slight sheen.

• Sewing Needle: Use a universal needle (size 90/14).

Cotton Knits

Cotton Jersey

• Weave: Knit.

• Feel: Soft, stretchy, smooth surface with a slight sheen.

• Best for: Jersey is great for t-shirts, knit dresses, leggings, casual wear.

• Sewing Needle: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 80/12).

Cotton French Terry

• Weave: Knit with soft looped underside.

• Feel: Soft, midweight, breathable.

• Best for: Sweatshirts, loungewear, joggers, casual dresses.

• Sewing Needle: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 80/12).

Cotton Fleece

• Weave: Knit with brushed, plush backside.

• Feel: Soft, thick, warm, and insulating.

• Best for: Cotton fleece is great for hoodies, sweatpants, loungewear, warm layering pieces.

• Sewing Needle: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 80/12 or 90/14 for thicker fabrics).

Cotton Fabric Care Tips

Keep your cotton fabrics looking their best with these simple care guidelines:

• Washing: Pre-wash in warm-hot water and tumble dry on high to preshrink before sewing. Once sewn, wash in cooler water to minimize further shrinkage.
• Drying: Air-dry or use a low heat setting in the dryer.
• Ironing: A high heat setting works best for smoothing out wrinkles.

Conclusion: Choosing the Right Cotton Fabric (You Got This!)

Understanding the weave, weight, and finish of your cotton fabrics is key to a sewing win. With these tips, you'll choose your fabric like a pro and make the sewing process as soft as cotton! Check out our full collection of cotton fabrics here!