Meet the Core Bowling Bag, our DIY spin on the classic (and oh-so-Y2K) bowler bag! With its iconic rounded shape inspired by the original bowling bag, it’s equal parts stylish and functional, roomy enough for your laptop and all your daily must-haves. (Bowling pins? Maybe not. Bowling shoes? Absolutely.) We stitched up samples in a variety of fabrics, from playful jacquards (like our beloved “horse forward” version 🐎) to sturdy twills and denim.
However you make it, this free sewing pattern is your ticket to a bag that’s totally unique to you. Download the Core Bowling Bag free pattern below and follow along our tutorial for an easy, step-by-step sew. Prefer videos? We also have a handy video sew-along in this post!
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Sized at 36.8 cm W × 20.3 cm H × 12.7 cm D (14.5″ W × 8″ H × 5″ D), the Core Bowling Bag sewing pattern packs plenty of features into its iconic silhouette. It’s fully lined and boasts a center head-to-head zipper for easy access, plus side gussets that make the wide opening safe and fuss-free. Inside this roomy bag, you’ll find a welt pocket for keeping small essentials in check, along with optional details like a key ribbon (because no one likes playing hide-and-seek with their keys). And since we’re all about the trendy touches, we couldn’t resist adding charm loops so you can clip on your favourite bag accessory.
For the Core Bowling Bag, choose a medium- to heavy-weight fabric with good structure and durability. Think: sturdy twill, canvas, or durable denim. For a softer, more relaxed look, try a quilted jacquard or even quilt your own fabric for extra texture. You can also experiment with water-resistant or waterproof fabrics (such as nylon or waxed canvas) for a practical, everyday bag. Scroll down for yardage amounts.
The key is to pair your fabric with the right support. Use sturdy foam fusible stabilizer to help the bag keep its shape, or add details like boning, piping, or bias tape to help give structure and support along the seams.
Love the look of our samples? We’ve made it easy for you to recreate them! Our Core Bowling Bag Kits come with the same beautiful fabrics and all the notions you need to make your very own:
Just need the hardware? Our Core Bowling Bag Hardware Kit includes everything to bring your bag to life: fusible, zippers, swivel hook, and bias tape, all in one handy bundle.
Printed PDF pattern (download free pattern above)
Fabric & lining (see yardage amounts below)
1-sided fusible stabilizer like Pellon Flex Foam or similar. We've experimented with a variety of interfacing types, and this gives the bag the best shape and structure. You can use a mid to heavyweight stabilizer (something that gives a crisp finish is best) but it won't hold it's shape the same way
Head-to-head zipper, 76 cm (30″) long, 4.5 mm coil. Head to head means two zipper pulls meet when the bag is closed. You can also sub in a single head zipper but it makes it more challenging to open and close.
Regular zipper, 23 cm (9″), for welt pocket
Thread in a coordinating colour
Machine needles (heavy-duty recommended for thicker fabrics)
Pins or clips
Marking tool (tailor’s chalk, fabric pen, or pencil)
Optional:
One small D-ring or swivel hook + twill tape or webbing (if adding a keychain ribbon)
Webbing (can be used instead of self-fabric straps)
Sewing label (see ours here)
Topstitching thread (for a professional finish)
Walking foot (helpful for quilting or bulky layers)
Batting (if quilting)
Interfacing (if your fabric requires additional support)
| Main Fabric | Lining | |
| 45"/ 1.1 m Wide Fabric | 0.8 m (0.9 yd) | 0.8 m (0.9 yd) |
| 58"/ 1.5 m Wide Fabric | 0.7 m (0.8 yd) | 0.7 m (0.8 yd) |
| Lightweight Fabrics | Mid- to Heavyweight Fabric | |
| 20" / 0.5 m Wide Foam Interfacing | 1 m (1.1 yd) | 0.6 m (0.7 yd) |
| Metric | Imperial |
| 36.8 cm W × 20.3 cm H × 12.7 cm D | 14.5" W x 8" H x 5" D |
If you prefer following along by video, we have filmed the entire process! Otherwise, follow along with our step-by-step instructions below.
Please note that the seam allowance is ⅜ of inch or 1cm unless stated otherwise.
Step 1: Transfer the zipper welt pocket markings on lining (E) and pocket bag (F) to the wrong side of your pattern pieces. The outer rectangle will be your stitching guide.
Step 2: Right sides together and matching the pocket placement lines, align pocket bag (F) and lining (E). Pin into place.
Step 3: Carefully stitch around the drawn stitching guide, following your lines exactly. Leave your needle down and pivot at the corners. Use a short stitch length (1.5 mm) and backstitch at the beginning and end.
Step 4: Using a small pair of scissors with sharp points, cut through the center of the welt rectangle, stopping 1/2" (13 mm) away from each short side. Clip on an angle to each corner, cutting as close as possible to the stitch line without cutting into it. Pull the pocket bag (F) to the inside through the opening. Press thoroughly around the opening. If there are any puckers around the corners, ensure you have snipped as close as possible to each corner. You should now have a neat rectangular window.
Step 5: Place the zipper behind the opening so the teeth are centered in the opening. Pin or glue-baste to hold. Working from the right side, edgestitch all around the rectangle, securing the zipper in place.
Step 6: Flip the lining around so you’re looking at the wrong side of the lining. Wrong sides together, fold the pocket bag (E) in half so that the bottom edge meets up with the top edge. Stitch the sides and the top of the pocket bag at 3/8" (10 mm), ensuring you don’t catch the lining in these seams. Press the pocket flat.
Optional: If you’re using a lighter weight fabric like nylon ripstop or a lightweight cotton or linen, we recommend fusing the centre inset (C) pieces with the foam interfacing. If you’re using a mid to heavyweight fabric, you can skip this step but may want to interface with a regular interfacing for additional stability.
Step 1: Fold zipper tabs (I) in half along the notches. Place the tabs on each end of the zipper with the folded edge pointing towards the teeth. Edgestitch in place.
Step 2: Right sides together, align the closed zipper with the unnotched long edge of the centre inset (C). Stitch close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot, backstitching at the beginning and the end. Repeat with the remaining centre inset (C) and the other side of the zipper. This is now the centre zipper inset.
Step 3: Wrong sides together, fold the gusset (D) in half along the fold line to form a triangle. Edgestitch along the fold.
Step 4: Right sides together, place the gusset with the lining centre inset. The long raw edge of the gusset should be aligned with the unnotched long edge of the centre inset, and the short raw edges of both pieces should match. Sew at 3/8" (10 mm). Repeat for the other long edge of the gusset. Repeat with the second gusset (D) and the remaining side of the centre insets (C).
Step 5: Fold the outer centre zipper inset right sides together along the zipper to gain access to the zipper seam. The wrong side of the zipper tape should now be touching the right side of the gusset. Align the the gusset and lining piece with the centre zipper inset, matching the long raw edges. Stitch close to the zipper teeth on top of your existing stitches, stopping 1/2" (13 mm) from both short edges. Repeat to sew the other end of the centre zipper inset to the gusset + lining. Repeat for the other side of the centre zipper inset. Press neatly and topstitch through all layers along the zipper teeth, again stopping 1/2" (13 mm) from the short edges.Your centre zipper panel is ready.
Step 1: Apply the foam interfacing to the wrong side of the front + back (A) pieces and the bottom (B). Follow the instructions for your fusible foam stabilizer to adhere it. If using Pellon Flex Foam, place a damp pressing cloth between the iron and stabilizer, and press for about 10 seconds. For added security, you can also stitch around the edges. This provides structure and ensures your bag maintains its shape.
Step 1: Wrong sides together, fold the charm loop (H) in quarters lengthwise: Press both long edges in by 1/4" (6 mm), then fold in half matching the folded edges. Press and edgestitch to secure into place. Cut into 4 equal-length pieces.
Step 2: Wrong sides together, press long edges of the strap (G) in following the outermost fold lines on the pattern piece. Next, fold the strap again following the centre-most fold line. Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the central fold to secure into place.
Step 3: Position the straps on the right side of the outer fabric at the marked points and baste in place at 1/4" (6 mm) from the edge. Fold charm loops in half and place them on top of the straps. The straps should now be sandwiched between the outer fabric and the charm loops. Stitch at 1/4" (6 mm) to secure them in place.
Step 1: Right sides together, align the long edges of the bottom (B) with the front + back (A) pieces. Stitch with a consistent seam allowance. Press seams open or toward the bottom.
Step 2: Right sides together and matching notches, align the centre zipper panel with the outer shell. Pin or clip layers, then stitch in place. Take care not to catch the lining in this step—it will be attached later. Press seams away from the centre zipper panel.
Step 1: Optional: If adding a keychain ribbon (J), baste it to the right side of the lining at the marked position at 1/4" (6 mm).
Step 2: Right sides together, align the lining piece to the notched long edge of the centre zipper panel lining. Match the notches at rounded corners. Stitch carefully, ensuring not to catch the outer fabric. Leave a 5" (13 cm) long opening on one side of the lining. This will allow you to turn the bag right side out later. Backstitch at both ends of the opening.
Step 3: Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Push out all corners and smooth seams for a crisp finish. Hand-stitch the lining opening closed using an invisible stitch (or machine stitch close to the edge if preferred). Tuck lining neatly inside the bag. You can also hand stitch the lining to the seam allowance to help it stay in place.
Well done, your Core Bowling Bag is complete! Don't forget to tag us on Instagram @CoreFabrics and use #CoreBowlingBag to share it with us and other sewists!
