If you haven’t downloaded the pattern yet, the Core Brise Dress is available for free on our blog, along with detailed, step-by-step instructions to guide you through the entire sewing process. We recommend reviewing the full instructions before getting started, as they’ll help you understand the unique construction of the dress and make adjustments (like grading) much easier to tackle.
We get this question a lot, and you’re definitely not alone! The Brise dress has a unique construction, so grading between sizes can feel a bit confusing at first glance. Here’s a simple way to approach it if you’re grading from a Small at the bust to a Medium at the waist and hips.
Begin by tracing the centre front line of the bodice for both sizes (S and M). This is your anchor point and should remain unchanged to keep the garment balanced.
Layer your two traced sizes together, aligning them along the centre front. In this case, where your bodice is size S and the skirt is size M, you’ll need to slightly rotate the S bodice until the centre front line matches up perfectly with the M bodice. Anchor them in place once aligned.
From there, you’ll gradually grade. Start at the Small under the armhole (to maintain your bust fit). Smoothly transition out to the Medium just above the sash area.
This creates a gentle, wearable shape without disrupting the design lines of the dress.
Once you’re happy with your blended lines, trace off your new front piece. This will be your final pattern, combining the Small at the bust and Medium through the waist and skirt.
The back is much more straightforward. Since it’s a standard bodice cut on the grain, you can simply blend from Small to Medium along the side seams, no special adjustments needed.
We hope you enjoy making your Brise dress. Happy sewing!
Emmanuelle
Emmanuelle is in charge of our marketing department and is voice behind our product descriptions, newsletters, videos, social posts, and blog. If there’s a textile pun to be made, she’ll find it.
